On change de registre
cette semaine pour se tourner vers le Vieux Monde et l’univers du sport à
travers Bloodbowl.
Il s’agit simplement de
la préparation de la boite de base.
Peinture certes, mais
aussi quelques petites originalités et astuces qui pourraient vous intéresser.
En vrac : aucun
doublon, utilisation de décalcos maison, flocage/soclage de football, mise en
valeur des marqueurs…
La principale modification concerne les rosters des équipes, ou comment arriver, avec 2 grappes identiques, à se constituer deux équipes de 12 joueurs visuellement différents.
We change the theme this week to look at the Old World and
the world of sport with Bloodbowl.
It is simply the preparation of the starter set box.
Painting, but also bring few originalities and tips that might interest you.
In bulk: no duplicates, use of home decals, basing football pitch, enhance markers...
It is simply the preparation of the starter set box.
Painting, but also bring few originalities and tips that might interest you.
In bulk: no duplicates, use of home decals, basing football pitch, enhance markers...
La principale modification concerne les rosters des équipes, ou comment arriver, avec 2 grappes identiques, à se constituer deux équipes de 12 joueurs visuellement différents.
Les 2 équipes ne nécessitent
pas la même exigence de travail, mais c’est globalement assez accessible.
L’équipe humaine est plus
facile à assembler mais les raccords devront être propres.
L’équipe orc nécessite
plus de découpes, mais la nature même des orcs est plus permissive à des
approximations dans les raccords lors de l’assemblage.
Main change concerns rosters of teams, or how to get, with 2 identical sprues, two teams with 12 players visually different.
Those two teams do not require the same work requirement, but it is generally quite accessible.
Human team is easier to assemble but fitting have to be clean.
Orc team needs more cuts, but the nature of the orcs is more permissive to approximations in fitting during assembly.
Main change concerns rosters of teams, or how to get, with 2 identical sprues, two teams with 12 players visually different.
Those two teams do not require the same work requirement, but it is generally quite accessible.
Human team is easier to assemble but fitting have to be clean.
Orc team needs more cuts, but the nature of the orcs is more permissive to approximations in fitting during assembly.
Je vous livre donc ma
recette d’assemblage pour ces 2 Equipes.
I give you my assembly recipe for these 2 teams.
I give you my assembly recipe for these 2 teams.
Reickland Reavers
J’ai mixé les éléments de
figurines selon les équipements, c’est-à-dire les ¾ entre eux, lanceur et receveur entre eux. Le blitzer
sera simplement repositionné.
Les figurines de la
première grappe sont numérotées de 1 à 6 et seront utilisées telles quel.
Les figurines A à F sont
modifiées comme suit :
-A: buste1, jambe2
-B: buste2, jambe 1
-C: 3 repositionné
-D: buste5, jambe4
-E:buste6, jambe 5
-F:buste4, jambe6
I mixed miniatures elements according to equipment, I mean
linemen with linemen, launcher and receiver between them. The blitzer will
simply be repositioned.
Miniatures from first sprue are numbered from 1 to 6 and will be used as is.
Figures A to F is modified as follows:
Miniatures from first sprue are numbered from 1 to 6 and will be used as is.
Figures A to F is modified as follows:
-A: bust1, leg2
-B: bust2, leg 1
-C: 3 repositioned
-D: bust5, leg4
-E: bust6, leg 5
-F: bust4, leg6
-B: bust2, leg 1
-C: 3 repositioned
-D: bust5, leg4
-E: bust6, leg 5
-F: bust4, leg6
Gouged Eyes
Là c’est un peu plus compliqué.
Le black orc alternatif est issu de
l’original, je l’ai splité et entièrement repositionné. Normalement, anatomiquement ça ne fonctionne pas trop, mais les plaques d’armure
permettent de planquer relativement facilement les raccords douteux.
Pour le reste, j’ai
beaucoup mixé. J’ai séparé les jambes des bustes, mais aussi les têtes. Car
elles sont beaucoup plus personnalisées que celles des humains et les
conversions paraitraient trop évidentes. Dans certains cas, j’ai utilisé des
têtes d’orcs Battle (le reliquat des
orcs Heroquest). J’ai fait des photos par binômes originaux/modifiés poste à
poste.
Here, it is a bit more complicated.
The black orc alternative comes from the original, I splited it and fully repositioned. Normally, anatomically it does not work too much, but armor plates make it possible to hide relatively easily doubtful connections.
For the rest, I mixed a lot. I separated legs from busts, but also heads. Because they are much more personalized than human ones and conversions would seem too obvious. For some minis, I used Orc head from Battle (leftovers from my Heroquest Orcs). I made pictures by tandem original/ modified by position.
The black orc alternative comes from the original, I splited it and fully repositioned. Normally, anatomically it does not work too much, but armor plates make it possible to hide relatively easily doubtful connections.
For the rest, I mixed a lot. I separated legs from busts, but also heads. Because they are much more personalized than human ones and conversions would seem too obvious. For some minis, I used Orc head from Battle (leftovers from my Heroquest Orcs). I made pictures by tandem original/ modified by position.
Coté peinture, rien de
spécial coté Humain, j’ai juste utilisé un bleu plus profond que le bleu
Reickland original et banni les notes de jaune qui ne me plaisaient pas.
Regarding painting, nothing special on the human side, I just used a deeper blue than the original blue Reickland and banned notes of yellow I didn’t like.
Regarding painting, nothing special on the human side, I just used a deeper blue than the original blue Reickland and banned notes of yellow I didn’t like.
Pour les orcs, j’étais
moins arrêté sur les couleurs. J’ai donc peint peau et vêtements pour tout le
monde dans un premier, puis fait 3 essais de couleur.
Le violet est la couleur
la plus profonde mais un peu tristounette finalement. Le jaune est bien cool
aussi, mais le rouge, que je souhaitais éviter pour des raisons de manque
d’originalité, c’est finalement imposé, tellement il pète bien !
For orcs, I was less stuck on colors. So I painted skin and clothes for everyone in a first, and then made 3 color tests. Purple is the deepest color but a little bit sad actually. Yellow is very cool too, but Red, which I wanted to avoid for reasons of lack of originality, finally imposed, so it strikes!
For orcs, I was less stuck on colors. So I painted skin and clothes for everyone in a first, and then made 3 color tests. Purple is the deepest color but a little bit sad actually. Yellow is very cool too, but Red, which I wanted to avoid for reasons of lack of originality, finally imposed, so it strikes!
J’aurai donc finalement
des équipes bleue et rouge, comme sur la boite…mais à bien y réfléchir, c’est
le combo que je préfère.
Le petit plus auquel je tenais
était de faire les traditionnels damiers orcs sur les équipements. Mais des
damiers bien réguliers et petits (carré de 1mm) sont techniquement assez
délicats à faire.
So I will finally have blue and red teams, as on the box ... but this is the combo I prefer.
The little thing I wanted to do was to make traditional orc checkerboards on equipment. But regular checkerboard and small (square of 1mm) are technically quite delicate to do.
So I will finally have blue and red teams, as on the box ... but this is the combo I prefer.
The little thing I wanted to do was to make traditional orc checkerboards on equipment. But regular checkerboard and small (square of 1mm) are technically quite delicate to do.
Pour se faire, j’ai
imprimé des bandes de damiers noir/ vide sur du papier à décalcomanies. Vide,
car je n’ai pas la possibilité d’imprimer du blanc, je compterai donc sur un
fond blanc sur la figurine (une ligne de 2mm en fait) pour remplir ce rôle.
Après il suffit de poser la bandelette de décalcos sur la ligne blanche, et
hop, on a un damier.
Par contre, sur les formes
complexes, comme les genouillères, je les ai peints à la main.
To do that, I printed black/empty checkerboard strips on decal paper. Empty, because I do not have the possibility to print white ink, so I will rely on a white painted background on miniature (a line of 2mm actually) to fill this role. After just put the decals strip on the white line, and presto, we have a checkerboard.
On the other hand, on complex shapes, like knee pads, I painted them by hand.
To do that, I printed black/empty checkerboard strips on decal paper. Empty, because I do not have the possibility to print white ink, so I will rely on a white painted background on miniature (a line of 2mm actually) to fill this role. After just put the decals strip on the white line, and presto, we have a checkerboard.
On the other hand, on complex shapes, like knee pads, I painted them by hand.
On ajoute à ça quelques
décalcos issus de la boite de base, des lignes blanches, des usures, des
éraflures à la mousse de blister (ou vieux pinceau) en ironbreaker, et ça
commence à donner quelques choses. Un aplat de strong tone (agrax) global
permet également de casser le brillant flagrant du décalco, de fusionner les
damiers au reste du rouge et d’atténuer les bandes blanches qui seraient trop
vives. Et là on a un effet naturel de matériel utilisé et usé.
Adding to that some decals from starter box, white lines, wear, scratches made using blister foam (or old brush) in ironbreaker, and it starts to be nice. A global glaze of strong tone (agrax) also allows breaking the glaring brilliance of decals, merging the checkers with red color and attenuate white strips would bright too much. And here we have a natural effect of used equipment.
Adding to that some decals from starter box, white lines, wear, scratches made using blister foam (or old brush) in ironbreaker, and it starts to be nice. A global glaze of strong tone (agrax) also allows breaking the glaring brilliance of decals, merging the checkers with red color and attenuate white strips would bright too much. And here we have a natural effect of used equipment.
Pour le soclage à flocage, c’était une première pour moi, donc j’ai suivi les
conseils d’un spécialiste de la chose. Merci donc à Dimitri de chez MiniSocles,
pour son matériel premièrement et pour ces tutos et conseils. http://www.minisocles-blog.fr/2016/11/galerie-skaven-blood-bowl.html
La recette pour ces
socles de pelouse de football :
-soclage partiel au sable
fin, en zones aléatoires. Je recouvre 75%.
-peinture en caliban
green, puis brossage en « remontant » vers le moot green, avec ajout
de bleachedbone.
- pose du flocage
statique, ici herbe statique courte vert vif MiniSocles, collé à la cyano. J’ai
trouvé que la colle blanche habituelle avait tendance à altérer la couleur du
flocage. Je ne pose du flocage que là où j’ai collé le sable
- pose de boue, dans les
zones qui n’ont pas reçu de sable au préalable. La boue est un mélange de pigment
ombre naturelle Vallejo et de boue « acrylic resin » MIG, appliqué au
très vieux pinceau (ça flingue les pinceaux ce truc).
-enfin, ajout de touffes d’herbes
courtes printemps Minisocles, afin de donner un peu de volume et d’irrégularité
à la pelouse.
For base, it was a first for me, so I followed advices of a specialist. Thanks to Dmitri from MiniSocles, for his material first and for these tutorials and tips. http://www.minisocles-blog.fr/2016/11/galerie-skaven-blood-bowl.html
The recipe for football pitch:
For base, it was a first for me, so I followed advices of a specialist. Thanks to Dmitri from MiniSocles, for his material first and for these tutorials and tips. http://www.minisocles-blog.fr/2016/11/galerie-skaven-blood-bowl.html
The recipe for football pitch:
- partial sanding with fine sand, in random zones.
I recover 75%.
-Caliban green base color, then dry brush with moot green, with bleachedbone added.
- laying of static grass, here static short green grass MiniSocles, glued to the cyano. I found usual white glue tended to alter color of static grass. I only pose flocking where I stuck sand.
- mud laying, in areas that have not previously received sand. The mud is a mixture of natural shade Vallejo pigment and mud "acrylic resin" MIG, applied to the very old brush (that thing kills brushes).
- Finally, add tufts of short spring grass Minisocles , to give few volume and irregularity to the lawn.
-Caliban green base color, then dry brush with moot green, with bleachedbone added.
- laying of static grass, here static short green grass MiniSocles, glued to the cyano. I found usual white glue tended to alter color of static grass. I only pose flocking where I stuck sand.
- mud laying, in areas that have not previously received sand. The mud is a mixture of natural shade Vallejo pigment and mud "acrylic resin" MIG, applied to the very old brush (that thing kills brushes).
- Finally, add tufts of short spring grass Minisocles , to give few volume and irregularity to the lawn.
Dernière petite chose, le
soclage des marqueurs et jetons. J’ai cherché un motif de soclage en rapport
avec les plateaux où ils sont utilisés.
Pour les humains, du
dallage beige. J’ai appliqué une couche de magicsculpt sur le socle, que j’ai
lissé en le faisant tourné à plat sur une surface plate dure mouillée (un
carreau, un bout de vitre, une plaque de plexi). Ce qui donne un rendu bien
plat, et permet par pression de contrôler l’épaisseur de pate appliquée.
Ensuite une fois sec, j’émerise à plat, puis
je dessine les dalles à la pointe de fer. Et peinture.
Pour les orcs, un sol
aride avec des pierres. J’ai donc collé quelques bouts d’ardoise et floqué au
sable fin autour. Du très classique, pour une peinture en accord avec la
planche de jeu des orcs.
Last thing, I made bases for markers and tokens. I looked for a pattern related to trays where they are suppose to be played.
For humans,beige tiling. I applied a layer of Magicsculpt on the base, which I smoothed by turning it flat on a wet, hard and flat surface 'a tile, a piece of glass, a plate of acrylic glass). This gives a very flat rendering, and allows pressure to control thickness of paste applied. Then once dry, I made flat on sandpaper sheet (400), then I draw slabs with iron tip. And paint them.
For orcs, arid land with stones. So I stuck pieces of slate and glue fine sand around. Very classic bassing actually,for painting according to orc trays.
Last thing, I made bases for markers and tokens. I looked for a pattern related to trays where they are suppose to be played.
For humans,beige tiling. I applied a layer of Magicsculpt on the base, which I smoothed by turning it flat on a wet, hard and flat surface 'a tile, a piece of glass, a plate of acrylic glass). This gives a very flat rendering, and allows pressure to control thickness of paste applied. Then once dry, I made flat on sandpaper sheet (400), then I draw slabs with iron tip. And paint them.
For orcs, arid land with stones. So I stuck pieces of slate and glue fine sand around. Very classic bassing actually,for painting according to orc trays.
Voilà une boite de base
terminée, prête pour le coup d’envoi.
Très fan de l’équipe
humaine, je me suis forcé à faire l’équipe orc pour compléter la boite et avoir
2 équipes pour jouer. J’avoue avoir pris beaucoup plus de plaisir sur la
conversion et surtout la peinture des orcs, en fin de compte. Ces figs sont
super cools. Il ne leurs manque que des flingues !!!
Starter box completed, ready to kick off.
Very fan of human team at the beginning, I forced myself to prepare orc team to get complete box and have 2 teams ready to play. I have to admit I had much more fun on conversions and especially painting on Orc team. These minis are pretty cool. They only miss guns !!!
Starter box completed, ready to kick off.
Very fan of human team at the beginning, I forced myself to prepare orc team to get complete box and have 2 teams ready to play. I have to admit I had much more fun on conversions and especially painting on Orc team. These minis are pretty cool. They only miss guns !!!
